A scion of one of Chablis’ oldest families, like Raveneau and Dauvissat, Daniel-Etienne Defaix is stubborn in the best way.

While most producers have modernized to expand and accelerate production, Defaix (a friend of the late legend Henri Jayer) clings to a tradition that has all but disappeared from Chablis. It once was the rule, but he is now the lone exception.

He does it because he can. Most of his costs were paid long ago by his ancestors.

His model makes no financial sense; if he were a young upstart with little money or land, it would be impossible. After harvesting from his Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards, his wines ferment naturally with indigenous yeasts (a rarity in Chablis), then spend a ridiculous 10+ years aging in steel tanks on their lees before bottling. Nobody else in Chablis does this.

Defaix’s parcel in the Premier Cru “Côte de Léchet” vineyard (singular, because these vines are in the original east-facing core above Vaillons, on pure Portlandian limestone) farmed entirely by hand and fertilized with natural compost. The site is rich in Kimmeridgian clay and fossil oysters, delivering a racy, saline, flinty rendition of that chalky, pithy-citrus, oyster-shell profile that defines great Chablis.

This guy, and these wines, are absolute treasures that are cherished by somms, winemakers, and other wine folk in the know.

Why You'll Love It

• Pure mineral expression: This is the clear, resonant voice of Chablis singing with a once-brassy tone that has softened, displaying that perfect synthesis of oyster shell, creamy lemon, drippy stone fruit, and marine complexity that only properly aged Premier Cru can deliver.
  

• Perfectly aged, mineral-drenched gem: Defaix has done the work for you, presenting this wine in its prime drinking condition. We’ve enjoyed a variety of Defaix whites from the late-1990s to the present, and almost always, spectacularly, they’ve possessed a beautiful synthesis of youth and maturity.
  

• Remarkable value: At $65 per bottle on 6+ bottles, the price-to-quality ratio is simply unmatched not just in white Burgundy—but possibly all of fine white wine.

How to Serve It

• Give it 15-20 minutes of air in a decanter to unfurl aromatically.
  

• Serve cool (45-50°F), in Burgundy bowls.

• Don’t play around. Grab two dozen oysters and people you love. Dover sole or scallops with beurre noisette would also make for a divine pairing.